Ferrari V12 Engine

Ferrari V12 Engine

DASH / INSTRUMENT WARNING LIGHTS

1. The check engine light.

Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (powertrain).

P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurised fuel system and vapour recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked.
It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device in and reading the code. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off. Better to find a garage or mechanic that will read the code and actually give you a diagnosis rather than just making you pay to find out a number. Smaller garages and local mechanics will normally do this for you for a small fee, and being independent, the diagnosis won't be predicated on you buying some expensive parts from a corporate chain.

If you're a do-it-yourself type used to working from shop manuals, then a lot of places that will give you the diagnostic code for free. In America specifically, the Schuck's chain do free diagnostics checks (Checker, Kragen, Murray's, Advance) as well as AutoZone. Drop in - don't phone up and ask. A lot of times if you phone up they'll tell you it's $40. If you just turn up, more often than not they'll do it for nothing. In the UK I'm not sure who does - if you know, drop me a line. The alternative, if you're into maintaining your own vehicles, is to buy a reader and do it yourself.

2. The service engine light / Maint Reqd light.

This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maint Reqd". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you.
Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.

3. The electrical fault light.

This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.

4. Brake warning light 1

Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. The brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.

5. Brake warning light 2

If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, then take note. It's not doing that just to please itself. Compared to a steady light, a blinking ABS light normally indicates something more serious. In some cases it could be as bad as "you have no brakes at all." 

6. Coolant warning light

This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurised and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets depositted around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.

7. Oil warning light

Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.

Thanks :)

Source : carbibles.com

Car Maintenance Tips

1. Wheels and tyres

Rotate your tyres!

Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres.

Clean brake dust off regularly

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.

Check your tyre pressures

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.

Check your tread depth

Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident.

 

2. Engine

Check your belts

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury.

Fuel Economy

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.

Checking your oil level

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here.

Checking your coolant level

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you.

3. Fuel / gas

Will higher octane or premium fuel give me better gas mileage and/or more power?

No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular. See octane and power for more information.

4. Bodywork / paint

Keeping your paint finish in good condition

Only choose superior car detailing supplies to keep your car's interior and exterior like new. There are plenty of decent quality waxes and polishes on the market today and if the last time you waxed or polished your car was over a decade ago, things have changed considerably since then. The wax and polish compounds are far more sophisticated both in terms of protection from fading, the look of the finish, and the ease of application. For example Turtle Wax Ice gets rid of that old problem of white wax residue. Is a clean car a vanity thing? Partly, yes, but if you park under a tree where birds help repaint your car with recycled blueberries, that guck will come off a lot easier if it falls on a waxed paint job.
Tip: If you find a bird has pooped on your car, wash it off as quick as you can. There are compounds in bird waste that can damage most car paint jobs. If you leave it in the sun and the poop bakes on, you could end up with a dull spot in the paint.
Also: If you want to show your support for a cause, car magnets are better than bumper stickers. They don't damage the paint and are easy to move around and ultimately remove when the fad has passed. 

5. Electrical

Disconnecting and reconnecting your battery

If you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight. 

6. Lights

One indicator or blinker is flashing faster than the other

When you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.

Don't touch the glass when changing headlight bulbs

Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.

Thanks :)

Source : carbibles.com

How to Check Car Battery Water Levels : Part 4 of 4: Taking Adequate Safety Precautions

 

1. Protect your eyes by wearing safety goggles. The electrolyte in the battery is sulfuric acid, so it is extremely important that none of this liquid gets into your eyes, as it could cause significant damage or even blindness.

• Contact lenses afford you no protection and may complicate an accident. Ordinary glasses do not protect adequately due to the lack of side shields.
• Therefore, it's essential to wear safety goggles, which can be purchased at most hardware stores.

2. Protect your hands by wearing disposable gloves. Choose a glove-type that can stand up to sulfuric acid for at least a few minutes. These can be found at hardware stores. 

• Latex and vinyl gloves will not stand up to acid long. If you use latex or vinyl gloves, change the glove immediately upon noticing a splash on it. Given time, a splash of electrolyte will soak through the glove and burn your skin.

 

• Neoprene gloves offer protection for an hour or more, but are harder to find at ordinary hardware stores. Nitrile is not the same as Neoprene. Nitrile gloves offer less protection from sulfuric acid than latex, and should not be used.

 

3. Protect your skin. Wear old clothing with long sleeves, long pants, and closed toe shoes to cover as much skin as possible. If any electrolyte splashes on your clothing the fabric will rot away in about a week or two, leaving a hole, so wear old clothes that you can sacrifice.

 

4. Know what to do if the electrolyte touches your skin. If any electrolyte splashes on your skin, immediately wash it with running water and soap.

• If you feel a burning or tingling sensation on your skin anywhere, you may have splashed a drop of electrolyte on yourself. It only takes a drop to cause a burn.
• You may not be able to see any redness or injury until it is too late, so if you suspect you may have splashed yourself, take a break from your work and wash immediately rather than taking a chance.
• Dispose of all used gloves and rags when the job is done. Leaving these in contact with other materials could cause damage.

 TIPS :

• If you do not know what you're doing, take your car to a mechanic. Most auto-parts stores will perform this service free of charge.
• Do not remove any battery port covers while the car is running.
• Be sure that your eyes are protected. Battery acid can blind you and is very corrosive.
• Clean the battery. Dirt holds moisture and becomes slightly conductive, especially dirt exposed to acidic fumes from the battery. Current flowing over the exterior surfaces of the battery through dirt promotes corrosion of nearby metal.
• Use a one-inch wide plastic putty knife to pry off port covers. Plastic putty knives can be purchased at most hardware stores or where house paint is sold. Alternatively, a screwdriver with an insulated handle may be used, but when prying, be careful not to accidentally touch the metal shaft of the screwdriver to any other metal. That could cause a spark which could ignite hydrogen gas inside the battery.
• Keep all areas free and clear of debris while servicing battery.
• Wear safety glasses when checking and filling battery cell liquid levels.

Okay , Thank You :)
Source : wikihow.com

How to Check Car Battery Water Levels : Part 3 of 4: Adjusting the Fluid Levels

 

1. Use only distilled water to fill the cells. Distilled water can be purchased at most grocery stores. If the electrolyte levels in the cells are low (plates are exposed), fill each cell to just cover the plates. Then use a battery charger to recharge the battery, or just drive the car for a few days in normal service. Only fill to the maximum safe level — just touching the bottoms of the filler tubes — if the battery is fully charged.

• Use a clean funnel, sports bottle, turkey baster, etc. to ensure control of the flow and accuracy of the final level when filling each port. Be very careful to prevent any dirt or cleaning agents from getting into the cells.
• Using tap water, well water, filtered water, or anything but distilled water, will introduce minerals and chemicals (e.g. chlorine if it is city water) and other contaminates that will result in decreased battery life.

2. If the battery is weak or dead, avoid filling the cells fully. If you are adding water because the battery is weak or dead, it is better to fill it just enough to cover the plates (or leave it alone if it is at a normal level).

• When a weak or dead battery is charged the electrolyte level will rise, therefore you should allow space for the level to rise when you charge the battery. (This does not happen to a fully charged battery.)
• Electrolyte levels can also rise if the battery gets hot.

3. Wipe up spills and close the ports. Ensure all areas are clean and free from dirt or debris, then place cleaned port covers back onto the battery.

• If you accidentally overfilled the battery but there is no overflow onto the top surface of the battery, the best thing to do is just to stop filling and let it be. If there was an overflow onto the top of the battery, remember that the overflow is acidic — do not let it touch your skin or clothing.
• Clean it with a rag or rags or with paper toweling by wiping away from the ports. Do not let the rag or paper towels get wet enough to drip on other parts of the car or anything. Rinse the rag or paper towel in a pail of water. Wear gloves--don't get the water on your hands. After the job is done, discard the rinsed out rag or paper towel in the regular trash. Pour the water down a drain, being careful not to splash the water around. You do not want to take a chance that the residue of acid will get on something else. Finally, clean anything that the overflow contacted with a rag dampened with window cleaner.
• Visually inspect any overfilled battery weekly for a month to see if there is any further overflow, and clean any overflow as described above if necessary.
• The sulfuric acid lost from the battery by an accidental overflow is probably a small enough amount as to be immaterial to the operation of the battery. It is best not to attempt to add acid to to replace the loss. (Too much acid shortens the life of the battery more than too little.)

Okay, Part 4 will be continued in the next post :)
Thanks.
Source : wikihow.com

How to Check Car Battery Water Levels

It's important to regularly check the electrolyte (it really isn't just water) level in your car's battery, for two reasons: first, because it naturally evaporates and second, because a small amount electrolytes into hydrogen and oxygen every time you charge the battery. Learning how to safely check and replace the water in your car battery is an important aspect of car maintenance. Start with Step 1 below for detailed instructions on how to check car battery water levels, while protecting both you and your car.

Part 1 of 4: Cleaning the Battery and Opening the Ports

 

1. Locate the battery. In most cars, you simply need to open the hood of your car to access the battery. 

• Some batteries are located lower in the engine compartment, behind the front bumper and ahead of the front wheels. These are sometimes accessed from the bottom and need to be removed for service.

 

• Most BMW and Mercedes Benz batteries and a few others are located in the trunk, concealed in an isolated compartment.

 

2. Clean. Before you check the water levels, clean any dirt or debris from the top of the battery and around the battery terminals. This is important, as you do not want any foreign material entering the battery cells when you open them. This is also important because a clean battery surface helps slow or stop corrosion on nearby metal. 

• For general cleaning of road grime and minor corrosion use an ammonia-based window cleaner. Spray the cleaner on your rag — not on the battery itself — and wipe away any dirt. Paper towels can be used as long as you replace them before they disintegrate to bits.

 

• Heavy corrosion can be cleaned with a paste of baking soda and water. Again, wet the rag and wipe, do not soak the battery with baking soda. Sometimes it takes many repetitions of wetting the rag and wiping. Follow up by cleaning with a rag dampened with window cleaner to remove the baking soda. Leaving a residue of baking soda on the exterior of the battery will speed up future corrosion of the terminals and nearby metal.

 

• Don't get ahead of yourself here — be sure the covers are on the battery ports at this stage of cleaning. Do not let cleaning fluids drip or flow into the battery through the ports.

 

• Note: If you prefer, you can remove the battery from the car before cleaning and performing this maintenance, and reinstall it afterwards. This may be safer, especially if the battery is in an awkward location. This will reset some or all of the electronics in the car however (clock, radio station presets, etc.). If the battery can be serviced without removing it from the car, this usually saves considerable time overall.

 

3. Open the ports. On top of the battery are typically two semi-rectangular plastic covers, used to seal each battery cell port. These can be removed by gently prying with plastic putty knife or a screwdriver. Try prying from a number of points around the periphery of the cover if the cover does not immediately come loose. 

   

 •Some batteries have six individual round covers instead. These can be removed by twisting counter-clockwise, and then lifting them out.

 

 • If the battery is labeled as "maintenance free," it is not designed to be opened. Manufacturers advise that water cannot be added to these batteries, they simply need to be replaced if they stop working well.

 

4. Continue cleaning if necessary. Removing the port covers may reveal more dirt on the top of the battery. Continue cleaning by wiping away from the ports with a rag dampened with window cleaner.

• Do not use baking soda for this cleaning. Use a small amount of window cleaner, being very careful to prevent anything (cleaner, dirt, bits of paper toweling, etc.) from entering the ports.
• Don't be tempted to skip this step — keeping the top of the battery clean will reduce future corrosion. This is an effective aspect of battery maintenance for preserving the integrity of the connections.

Okay, Part 2 will be continued in the next post :)

Thanks.

Source : wikihow.com